Amidst the hustle and bustle of downtown Hanoi, a small to he stall on Hang Ma Street quietly attract visitors for providing folk toys and bringing Hanoians back to the nostalgic memories of Mid-Autumn Festivals in the past.
Vibrant Hang Ma Street during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Photo: Duy Khanh/ The Hanoi Times
On Hang Ma Street (Hoan Kiem Ward, Hanoi), a to he stall run by artisan Dang Van Hau showcases elaborately crafted and strikingly beautiful figurines that consistently captivate passersby.
Born in 1985 in Xuan La craft village (Phuong Duc Commune, Hanoi), Hau comes from the birthplace of traditional to he (edible toy figurines). As a child, he was familiar with rice flour, the nimble hands of his father and uncles and the natural colors from leaves and tree sap.
Taught by his grandfather, the renowned artisan Dang Van Ha, Hau developed a love for the craft through learning its history and techniques. Eventually, he chose to he making as his profession, developing this traditional handicraft.
“The whole village kneads to he. I also follow this trade both out of habit and to hold onto childhood memories. Having practiced this craft for twenty years, I feel increasingly attached and passionate,” says Hau.
Artisan Dang Van Hau devotes his whole life to make to he. Photo: Huy Pham/ The Hanoi Times
According to Hau, ingredients include rice flour and natural dyes from gac fruit, turmeric, leaves and false daisies. With skillful hands, he transforms in minutes colorful dough into art: storks, zodiac animals, peacocks, phoenixes, the Quarrel of the Six Beasts, Money Toads, the Four Sacred Beasts, and more.
Besides traditional designs, Hau also creates modern to he figures to appeal audience. For instance, during Mid-Autumn Festivals, he crafted Hang Nga and Chu Cuoi (the Moon Goddess and Moon Boy) in Vietnamese attire but with chibi-style faces.
During Christmas, he designed figurines like Santa Claus next to Elsa, the Snow Queen from the animated film Frozen. These variations attract children and boost the appeal of traditional toys.
Hau was awarded the title of Hanoian Artisan by the Chairman of the Hanoi People’s Committee at the age of 29, making him the youngest artisan in Xuan La Village.
The funky figurine of To he, skillfully crafted by Dang Van Hau from rice powder. Photo: Huy Pham/ The Hanoi Times
Customers on Hang Ma Street include children excited for toy and adults seeking for childhood memories. Hanoian Tran Thu Huong shared: “I buy them for my kid, but actually for myself. These tiny figures remind me of Mid-Autumn Festivals in my childhood, when toys were fewer.”
Mid-Autumn figurines such as the Moon Goddess, five-fruit trays, star lanterns, and animals are especially popular. Compared to everyday products, they are more detailed, preserving folk charm while aligning with modern tastes.
To he prices vary from VND40,000 (US$1.65) to VND100,000 ($4.15), while intricate pieces like the five-fruit tray cost up to VND500,000 ($20.8).
Besides to he, Hang Ma Street also sells a variety of traditional Mid-Autumn toys such as star lanterns, hand-shaking paper drums, and papier-mâché masks. Once overshadowed by modern products, these rustic items are regaining popularity.
Amid the festive lights, the humble to he stall on Hang Ma Street stands out as a nostalgic corner, bringing back memories of simple Mid-Autumn celebrations many wish to relive.
The craft of making to he in Xuan La Village dates back 400 to 500 years. It has passed down through generations. Today, Xuan La is the only village in Hanoi and Vietnam that still maintains the to he tradition.
To he is a toy made from glutinous rice flour mixed with sugar, making it edible. In the past, it was known as the “bird and stork cake” because figurines were shaped like birds and storks and brought to festivals. Later, artisans added a whistle that produced the sound “to te ti te,” from which the name to he originated.
In Xuan La, nearly every villager knows how to make to he, but only a few continue it as a profession. Modern craftsmen go beyond traditional shapes, creating imaginative figures for children and adults. Artisans have updated designs to meet changing tastes, adding characters from fairy tales, cartoons and comics such as Aladdin, Spiderman, Doraemon and many more.
By Jenna Duong
